Among all of the insane shit that’s been going down in this world, the fall of Mario Batali broke my heart. He’s always resonated with me; I always felt that he truly GOT it. His sheer devotion to rock and roll, to food, to creating the experience, all of it. A kindred spirit. I particularly love this description in Bill Buford’s Heat:
“and one of my last images is of Batali at three in the morning — a stoutly round man with his back dangerously arched, his eyes closed, a long red ponytail swinging rhythmically behind him, an unlit cigarette dangling from his mouth, his red Converse high-tops pounding the floor — playing air guitar to Neil Young's "Southern Man.’”
Turns out he’s being seriously investigated for raping and harassing women. Obviously this was long whispered about, but I always chalked it up to his reputation as a partier; I couldn’t believe the truth. I still can’t.
I took myself to Del Posto today for the first time and was abjectly fearful. Would it, too, have fallen? How must the staff feel? Where is the true soul of the restaurant? Was it always with Bastianich? Is Bastianich any better? Is it betrayal to give any support to the group at all?
In lieu of shame and hushed tones, what I found instead was the inspiration I’ve been searching for all year. The boost to the next level. That Del Posto has nothing to do with Batali. It never has. I’ve been in hospitality for so long that I occasionally lose my way. Why do I do this to myself? The hours, the treatment, the occasional abject lack of respect. My body, which at 34 I’m starting to duct tape together.
Why? Because it’s always been about the staff behind the facade. Because despite all of this, there’s a much bigger picture. I’m so proud to be part of a world of hospitality that immediately pulls up a chair at every meal and asks how they can make it better; prouder than anything I’ve ever done. A community bigger than I will ever be. And we’re all in it together, working daily to remediate the effects of this world in which we’re all trying so desperately to survive. But we won’t. None of us will.
In the meantime, there’s cut crystal, 2010 Barolo, tableside service, stirred gin martinis, hand formed pasta, and our #foreverfamily of fellow hospitality diehards.
I feel insanely lucky to have found my place in this world. It’s a pleasure and an honor to stand beside you all. Here’s to the next 19 years. I’d do it all again.
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